Home  /  Casino hotels in Canada

A guest guide · four properties, three provinces

Four Canadian resorts, taken as architecture

Auditoriums, kitchens, spas and grounds: everything in a resort of this kind that works perfectly well for a guest who never goes near the tables. The tables are the one thing left undescribed.

A gaming licence underwrites architecture that ordinary hotel arithmetic could never justify: halls built to the dimensions touring productions actually ask for, spas with water systems that work, restaurants with a real brigade behind the pass, and sites chosen for what can be seen from the window rather than for passing trade. Four Canadian properties turn that money into something worth a night in its own right — whether or not the reason they exist interests you in the slightest.

What follows treats each of them purely as somewhere to sleep: the fabric of the structure, the rooms open to everybody, and the ground immediately beyond the entrance. The gaming halls are absent from it — no tour of them, no catalogue of games, no talk of stakes and no account of how any of it operates. That portion of the plan is skipped.

Lit facade of a Canadian casino resort hotel seen across the water at dusk
Four resorts across three provinces, taken here as architecture and as places to stay the night.

In this section

I

Montréal Casino & Hotel

The building

Of the four, this is the one nobody actually designed. At its core stands the French pavilion from the 1967 world exposition — a tower sheathed in aluminium fins, put up as a temporary structure and never taken down — with the Québec pavilion joined to its flank and several decades of additions folded around the pair. You end up reading the place in strata: the confidence of the sixties in the metal skin, later decades in the glazed atria, and interiors renewed often enough that the newest finish usually sits a few paces from the oldest.

Eating runs from a full dining room down to counters and open terraces, a cabaret space carries the evening programme, and the function halls look out over the water. Ask for something high on the river elevation — the view is the whole argument for staying.

Around it

The address is a man-made island in the St Lawrence, so what surrounds you is parkland rather than pavement. Parc Jean-Drapeau covers most of the ground, the rowing basin cut for the 1976 Olympics runs alongside, and Buckminster Fuller's geodesic sphere — the American pavilion in 1967, the Biosphère ever since — shows through the trees opposite. Grand Prix weekend borrows the island roads. The metro at Jean-Drapeau puts you downtown within minutes, and a pair of bridges carries you back to the mainland on foot or by car.

Montreal Casino and Hotel on Ile Notre-Dame, its finned pavilion tower lit above the water
Île Notre-Dame: an Expo 67 pavilion that was never meant to outlive the summer.
II

Fallsview Casino Resort

The building

Carved into the slope above the Niagara gorge, which is why a building that presents as a handful of storeys from the boulevard keeps descending once you are inside and moving towards the view. The guest tower rises from the high ground and most rooms above the middle floors are turned at the water. Beneath it sits a complete resort: an auditorium that draws names on tour, a spa, a covered pool, restaurants from formal to five-minute, and a retail galleria that doubles as the corridor linking them.

The public rooms make no apology for their theatricality — domes overhead, walls of glass towards the gorge — and they are at their best after dark, when the floodlights are on the falls.

Around it

Getting to Horseshoe Falls means a descent on foot through the gorge park, and the path running along the top of the bank is the finest thirty minutes available on the Canadian side. Ten minutes north, Clifton Hill runs its arcades and its haunted houses — a gift or a trial, depending on who you brought with you. The railway station and the border crossing are both to the northeast, while the Niagara Parkway heading upstream delivers you into vineyard country, and out of the crowds, inside twenty minutes.

Fallsview Casino Resort above the Niagara gorge, its glazed public rooms lit in the evening
Niagara Falls: a resort that hides its true depth behind a modest street elevation.
III

River Rock Casino Resort

The building

Stretched out horizontally beside the Fraser, the bedrooms set back from the current and the public rooms pulled forward to meet it. The register is West Coast instead of grand — heavy timber, cut stone, glass by the acre, and colours borrowed from the water on a grey afternoon, which is what most afternoons are here. There is a hall that handles full touring productions, a spa, a line of restaurants leaning Asian (the correct instinct in this city), and, on the water side, a marina with its boardwalk.

That boardwalk is the underrated part of the place. It is where the resort drops the performance altogether and hands you a working river to look at instead.

Around it

The municipality is pancake-flat, which rewards walking and rewards a bicycle a good deal more. Trails along the dykes run for miles upstream and down; head southwest and they finish in Steveston, a former fishing settlement whose cannery has become a museum and whose wharf still has crews selling straight off the deck. The Canada Line stops next door and lands you in central Vancouver inside half an hour, and the international airport is close enough to make this a genuinely useful final night before an early flight.

River Rock Casino Resort stretched low along the Fraser riverbank beside its marina
Richmond: timber, stone and a boardwalk that is quietly the best thing on the site.
IV

Casino Rama Resort

The building

Nothing on this site reaches for height. The resort spreads sideways and stitches itself together with internal streets, so you can cross between the bedrooms, the restaurants and the entertainment hall without once stepping outdoors — sound thinking this far north, where winter is a serious proposition. That hall is the largest room on this page and is booked accordingly, which is what brings most people up the highway.

The site belongs to the Chippewas of Rama First Nation, and that fact lives in the fabric rather than in a line of marketing copy: Indigenous artists were commissioned throughout the public rooms, and the names and the materials take their cue from that work. A spa, rooms for meetings and a range of dining from the quick to the formal make up the remainder.

Around it

Lake Couchiching opens up immediately to the west, with the resort on the calmer eastern bank above Orillia. The town is a few minutes down the road and holds the shops, a park along the water and the coach heading south. Past that you are into cottage country: the Trent–Severn waterway steps north through its locks towards Georgian Bay, and the roads on either bank make a good day out with nowhere in particular to arrive.

Casino Rama Resort spread low across its site near Lake Couchiching in Ontario
Rama: a resort built sideways, and warm enough to cross without a coat in February.

Why the gaming floors are missing

Each of the four holds a licence from its province, and in each one the gaming rooms are run as a separate operation from the hotel side. They are not described here, and we cannot reserve anything within them for you. Age limits, the documents you will be asked to show and the rules of the house differ by province and are revised periodically — put that question to the front desk.

Should gambling have stopped being a pastime, whether for you or for somebody near you, every province named on this page offers support that is free and confidential: ConnexOntario in Ontario, the provincial gambling support service in British Columbia, and Jeu : aide et référence in Québec.

Nothing written here is an encouragement to gamble. Our subject is hotels, and we are happy to plan a stay in which the casino never appears on the itinerary at all.

Elsewhere on this page

If the architecture holds your attention more than the postcode does, these are the parts worth a second pass:

  • Montréal — the accidental one, assembled out of a world fair that was meant to be dismantled.
  • Niagara Falls — the one with the view, and the only one where the evening lighting does half the work.
  • Richmond — the quiet one: a riverbank, a boardwalk and a station that reaches Vancouver before you have finished a coffee.
  • Rama — the largest hall of the four, and the strongest sense of where it actually stands.

Why this guide sits on our site

We keep it here for guests who ask us where else to stay once they leave Lisbon, and because the same question applies to any of them: which floor, which elevation, and whether the view is worth the supplement. Our own house is the subject of the full review.

If you want help with dates for one of these four, write to the reception through the contact page. No part of that enquiry touches a gaming floor.

Four properties, three provinces

Take the architecture, leave the rest

Every one of these is worth a night for the building alone. And when you are back on this side of the Atlantic, our own forty-two keys are on Avenida da Liberdade.